INTERVIEW #115 LINA ODELL

Name: Lina Odell

Occupation: Artist/teacher/seamstress

Based in: Blekinge region, Sweden south coast.

Instagram: @lina.odell

Photo: Laila Duran

Hi Lina, welcome to A Sustainable Closet. Can you tell us more about yourself and what the word KRUSA means as mentioned in your Instagram biography?

Yes! Hello! I am a folk seamstress and textile teacher who has a great love for world folk art and textiles. At the moment I work a lot with Swedish folk costumes and heritage. I am also the first person in Sweden to be a journeyman in folk costume tailoring. The word KRUSA is an old Swedish word loosely meaning that something extra is added to behaviour or to a surface or an item to make it prettier. Like a pattern in weaving or an embroidered shirt. Like the wind touches still water and makes ripples on the surface. Or when a person is sucking up to someone.

When did your interest in folk costumes start?

At first, I did not see that Sweden had folk costumes and traditions, even though I grew up wearing them for festive occasions. I just saw and fell in love with folk textiles from China, India and South America. It all started when I moved to Denmark. I was 14 years old, a little hippie-girl from Dalarna studying textile and fashion for a few years abroad. But when I lived in another country I realised that I had grown up surrounded by what I was looking for in the rest of the world, so I moved back home again and started to study folk costume tailoring at Sätergläntan in Insjön.

What is a folk costume?

This is a really big question.. that one I could talk about for ages. But in short, it is either 1: Clothes in a certain style typical to a certain region worn mostly before the industrial revolution (ca 1850) But in some villages, they kept wearing them until they became a popular fashion in the 1920s. Or 2: Outfits based on old clothes from a particular region, but put together since no whole outfit had been preserved. Or 3: A made-up outfit made to represent a region that has had no special way of dressing historically.

How would you define it and why should we learn more about folk costumes?

I think knowledge about folk costumes is important for understanding our own culture. If you study it, it can tell you a lot about society, religion and skills. Sweden has not always been a prosperous industrial country with free religion and equality. For example, if you were a married woman it was unthinkable to show yourself without covering your hair.

Can you mention a few folk costumes you find truly beautiful and interesting?

Since I grew up in Dalarna I like the folk costumes from the Siljan-region. Very colourful and has lots of home woven fabrics and mixes with florals and stripes.

But I find the folk costumes from Skåne more interesting. The region had a prosperous time around the 16th century and that shows in the folk costumes silhouette and materials. Lots of dark colours and silks. Heavy jewellery and layers. Most of the fabrics are also bought and not handwoven which makes the Skåne folk costumes easier to make since no special striped fabric has to be handwoven, compared to costumes in Siljan.

What is the most common thing people get surprised over when it comes to folk costumes?

That they are so many and so colourful. And that most cities don’t have one historically.

For those who have one at home, what is the best way to take care of it?

Wash the linen pieces regularly, but the rest usually just needs to be hung out in the wind now and then. Keep it safe from moths and other insects.

You are a tailor and you teach tailoring too, how can anyone easily get started?

Always start with the inner layers. The linen underdresses and the white shirt. That is the most basic sewing in a folk costume. The outer layers are much more complicated. There are books to study about the subject. If you need patterns you could ask your local tailor (hemslöjdskonsulent).

What is a sustainable closet for you?

For me, a sustainable closet is filled with a few outfits made of natural reusable materials, that can be worn through any fashion period. A folk costume is just that. We should all treat our clothes like we treat our folk costumes. They are expensive or made by hand, maybe by someone dear to us, so we take care of them with dignity. They are an investment and are made to be worn for generations. They can be altered to fit a new owner and do not follow fashion.

And the last question, can anyone wear a folk costume? How to know which one to wear?

YES, anyone can wear a folk costume! Usually, you choose one from the place you originate, or where your family comes from. You could also choose a costume from where you presently live.

Simply some area you feel connected to.