Standards and certificates - what you need to know

The fashion industry has been increasingly scrutinized for its environmental impact, and as a result, many brands have turned to environmental and sustainability certificates and standards to improve their practices. These certificates and standards are intended to provide a framework for companies to measure and minimize their environmental impact, while also ensuring ethical labor practices and social responsibility.

On the positive side, environmental and sustainability certificates and standards can provide a way for consumers to identify and support brands that prioritize sustainability. These certifications can also incentivize companies to improve their practices and reduce their environmental impact. Furthermore, by implementing environmentally friendly practices, companies can save on costs in the long run.

However, some argue that environmental and sustainability certificates and standards can be limited in their effectiveness. Critics argue that some certifications may be too lenient, allowing companies to make small changes that do not necessarily lead to significant environmental impact reduction. Additionally, certifications can be expensive and time-consuming for smaller brands to obtain, which may exclude them from participating in the process. Lastly, some companies may use certifications as a marketing tool, rather than making meaningful changes in their practices.

Here comes a list of some of the most common fashion certificates and standards, what they mean and what they include. 

EU Eco-label

The EU eco-label, also known as the EU Flower, is a voluntary environmental certification scheme created by the European Union in 1992. The label is intended to help consumers identify products that have a reduced environmental impact, and it is awarded to products that meet strict environmental criteria.

The criteria for the EU eco-label are based on a life-cycle approach, taking into account the product's entire life cycle, from raw material extraction to disposal. The certification covers a range of product categories, including cleaning products, textiles, personal care products, and appliances, among others.

To obtain the EU eco-label, a product must meet a variety of environmental and performance standards, such as using renewable energy sources in production, minimizing waste and emissions, and ensuring that no hazardous substances are present in the product. Products must also meet social criteria, such as ensuring that workers' rights are respected and that no child labor is used in production.

EU eco-label does not mean that everything is organic, rather the whole process has been conducted under more environmentally friendly standards. 

GOTS

GOTS, or the Global Organic Textile Standard, is an international standard for organic textiles, which covers the entire textile supply chain. The standard was established in 2006 to ensure that organic textiles are produced in an environmentally and socially responsible manner, and it is widely recognized as one of the most rigorous standards for organic textiles.

The GOTS certification covers the entire supply chain, from the production of organic fibers to the manufacturing of the final product. The standard prohibits the use of toxic chemicals, such as pesticides and synthetic fertilizers, in the production of organic fibers, and it requires that the entire production process meets strict environmental and social criteria.

To obtain the GOTS certification, textile products must meet a range of environmental and social criteria, including the use of organic fibers, the implementation of water and energy conservation measures, and the protection of worker's rights, including a safe working environment and fair wages. Additionally, the standard prohibits the use of certain chemicals and requires the implementation of strict wastewater treatment protocols.

For one item to hold a GOTS standard 100% of the materials needs to be GOTS certified. There is no demand on living wages but on minimum wages, but many GOTS-certified fabrics are calculating on living wages. 

OCS

OCS, or the Organic Content Standard, is a certification that verifies the organic content of a product. It was created to provide transparency and credibility in the organic textile industry, and to ensure that consumers are getting what they pay for when they purchase organic products.

The OCS certification covers the entire textile supply chain, from the farming of the organic cotton to the final product. It verifies the percentage of organic material in the product and ensures that it meets the OCS standard for organic content.

To obtain the OCS certification, textile products must meet a range of criteria, including the use of certified organic cotton, the implementation of proper traceability measures, and the establishment of a proper chain of custody. The certification also requires that the product be processed without the use of certain harmful chemicals, such as chlorine bleach, and that wastewater treatment is properly implemented.

Remember, this is only in relation to the cotton used, not the whole item. 

Bluesign

Bluesign is a certification system that focuses on the sustainable production of textiles. It was established in 2000 and is based on five principles: resource productivity, consumer safety, air emission, water emission, and occupational health and safety. The Bluesign certification covers the entire textile supply chain, from raw material extraction to the manufacturing of the final product. It requires that companies take a proactive approach to sustainability, using eco-friendly production methods and minimizing waste and emissions.

To obtain the Bluesign certification, companies must meet a range of criteria, including the use of safe chemicals, the implementation of proper wastewater treatment protocols, and the reduction of energy and water consumption. The certification also requires that companies have a proper system in place for managing environmental, health, and safety risks.

Be aware that Bluesign is not an organic certificate but rather the production is done without harmful chemicals. In 2023 PFAS substances will be included on the lists of harmful chemicals, but it is not the case today.

Fairtrade

Fairtrade-certified products are produced in a way that ensures that the farmers and workers involved in their production receive fair wages and working conditions. The Fairtrade certification focuses on improving the lives of small-scale farmers and workers in developing countries by promoting sustainable livelihoods and ethical trade practices.

When it comes to fashion, it is mainly a certificate used for cotton production. Where the cotton used in production must be sourced from certified Fairtrade cotton producers, who are paid a fair price for their crops. The certification also requires that manufacturers provide fair wages and safe working conditions to their employees and that they engage in environmentally sustainable practices.

There are some environmental criteria too but it’s not an environmental or organic certificate. 

RSW

RSW, or the Responsible Wool Standard, is a certification system that focuses on the sustainable production of wool. The certification was established in 2016 and is based on the principles of animal welfare, land management, and social responsibility.

The RSW certification covers the entire wool supply chain, from the farming of the sheep to the manufacturing of the final product. It requires that farmers use responsible land management practices that promote biodiversity and protect natural resources, and that they provide a high level of care for the welfare of their sheep.

Mulesing is not allowed, but tail docking is (forbidden in Sweden though). Be aware that RSW might show that sheeps have had better lives compared to non-certified sources, but that doesn’t mean that the welfare of the animal is the first and major priority. If you want to be sure no animals were harmed, go for a vegan alternative. 

GRS

GRS, or the Global Recycle Standard, is a certification system that focuses on the sustainable production of textiles made from recycled materials. It can be post consumer textile waste or other waste from other industries. The certification was established in 2008 and covers the entire supply chain for recycled textiles, from the collection of raw materials to the final product.

The GRS certification requires that the recycled materials used in the production of textiles are tracked throughout the supply chain, from the initial collection to the final product. It also requires that companies engage in transparent and responsible supply chain management, and that they meet environmental and social criteria, including the use of safe and environmentally friendly production methods.

Only 50% of the material needs to come from recycled sources in order to obtain the certificate. 

Svanen

Svanen is a Nordic ecolabel that was established in 1989 by the Nordic Council of Ministers. The label is used to certify products that meet strict environmental and quality criteria, including energy efficiency, chemical use, and waste management.

The Svanen label covers a wide range of products, including cleaning products, personal care products, paper and office supplies, and textiles. To obtain the Svanen label, companies must meet a range of criteria related to environmental impact, energy consumption, and social responsibility.

For textiles, the Svanen certification requires that companies use environmentally friendly materials and production methods, as well as responsible waste management practices. It also requires that companies take a proactive approach to reducing their environmental impact, by minimizing water and energy use and avoiding the use of harmful chemicals.

Note that the cotton used needs to be organic, and the rest from renewable sources. When it comes to the social criteria only basic rights according to ILO convention are included.

For more insights on labels, certificates and standards. Check out our Glossary which we regularly update.