Why Second Hand Fashion Isn't Always Slow Fashion
The concept of slow fashion has become increasingly popular. It’s now a staple in every second-hand shop, and fashion influencers promoting pre-loved clothing often call themselves "slow fashion influencers." But what does slow fashion actually mean?
When we began our journey into fashion and sustainability about ten years ago, slow fashion emerged as the antithesis of fast fashion. It originally stood for fewer collections per year – sometimes just two or three for certain brands – with a focus on much higher quality. The clothes were made to last a lifetime, and the concept also embraced mending, caring for one’s garments, and minimalism. It was about high-quality items, produced in small quantities, for consumers who only bought what they truly needed to create a well-curated wardrobe. Slow fashion was the direct opposite of fast fashion.
Today, with the rise of the second-hand market, demand for pre-owned clothing has increased alongside supply. While some stores thrive, others struggle to take off. What stands out, though, is that many believe they can still enjoy frequent shopping, maintain large wardrobes, and constantly update their style, as long as they buy second-hand. For many, sustainable fashion is now synonymous with second-hand fashion. This shift isn’t surprising, given the urgent need to reduce the production of new clothes for environmental reasons. However, simply swapping new clothes for pre-owned ones in a circular market doesn’t necessarily make the fashion model sustainable. The circular economy still demands resources for transportation and shipping. Moreover, fast fashion clothing, even when second-hand, remains of poor quality, shedding microfibres when washed and wearing out after only a few uses.
To truly transition towards a more sustainable industry and more responsible consumption, second-hand clothing – which primarily originates from fast fashion – doesn’t quite meet the demands of sustainability. It doesn’t change consumer mindsets around owning less or being content with fewer items. Additionally, these low-quality clothes often don’t fulfil the long-term needs of consumers.
Slow fashion, as the name suggests, is about slowness. It encourages an attitude and relationship with clothing that prioritises owning and consuming less. It emphasises quality over quantity, with garments that last and meet a range of needs. Of course, there is a second-hand market for high-quality items, and some consumers are embracing the principles of slow living.
However, brands also need to join this journey. In a truly slow fashion world, this means small-scale, locally-produced, high-quality items purchased sparingly. Next time you hear the term "slow fashion," consider whether the concept truly embodies the slowness it’s supposed to represent.