INTERVIEW #25 GWEN ET GLORIA VINTAGE
Based in: France
Founded in: 2019
Founded by: Mandi
Shop at/ship to: We ship worldwide
Etsy @gwenetgloria
Instagram: gwenetgloriavintagestudio
Price range: 15€ - 150€
Why and when did you start your concept?
I started Gwen et Gloria after working as an e-commerce stylist. Working in the industry really brought home the vast consumption and waste in it and really gave me a wake up call about how I myself had lost a lot of the sustainable habits that I had been taught during my childhood. At the time of working as a stylist I was also selling vintage on Etsy and with Imparfaite Paris and I also was wanting to incorporate handmade products alongside the vintage pieces that I offered. So I decided to do something a bit more official and I created Gwen et Gloria after the name of my Grandmother and Godmother who were two of the most slow living sustain table minded individuals that I knew. Gwen et Gloria is a tribute to them and a reminder to myself not to lose but to also pass on the sustainable habits that they have taught me.
“Gwen et Gloria is a tribute to them (grandmother and godmother) and a reminder to myself not to lose but to also pass on the sustainable habits that they have taught me.”
How do you pick your products/what you sell?
It’s split between a gut feeling, something that I myself would like to own and things that I know my customers want and are asking me for. Also a background in theatrical costume so I love details, history and the story behind the items.
Have you always been a fan of pre-loved & vintage pieces, if not, what made you change?
Yes, some of my best memories growing up are going to jumble sales and car boot sales with either my Grandmother Gwen or my mom and her friends to find dressing up clothes. I remember getting some original antique corsets to play dress up in and then looking for them years later wanting to actually wear them with jeans but my mom had already passed them back to a charity shop.
In my own personal style I’ve always mixed vintage, handmade and high street together, but unfortunately that moved more to high street and high end after starting work and moving away from home, so the past few years it's been great to really invest the time in predominantly shopping vintage and preloved when I’ve needed to add to my closet but mostly I try not to buy unless it’s something that I really, really want and I know I going to keep and wear for years to come or basics pieces that hold my looks together.
What have been/and are the major challenges?
I think Imposter syndrome has been a very big one for me, making me doubt myself, instincts, stalling on plans and ideas and putting out content that I haven’t always been happy with. But, I’ve really been working on that, trying not to beat myself up, building my confidence and really just enjoying the process, the clothes, the people and learning new skills.
Also, the aspect of learning on the job when it comes to running a sustainable business. For example, I bought some Bamboo silk fabric as I wanted to produce consistent handmade products, after researching information on plants that have low environmental impact which bamboo itself does. Brilliant, I thought, until a couple of months later when I learnt that the actual process to turn the bamboo into fabric is the same as viscose which is chemical based and not environmentally friendly. So I was undecided on what to do as I also didn’t want to add to the problem of waste. All I can do is be as transparent as possible to my customers. The same with my linen which is organically and ethically made and I purchase from a small business in Wales but again when I looked at the travel process from India, to Wales and then to me here in France that isn’t a very sustainable method either. I have to continue to learn, be flexible and adapt so I can deliver and run a business as sustainable as possible.
“I’m not sure if sustainably in the fashion industry is taught obligatory in fashion institutions but it definitely needs to be taught in all years of the schooling system. That way we are teaching the new leaders of not just this industry but all industries to be plant and people first and profit after.”
What has been the largest gain?
Definitely, the amazing community that I’ve met over the past couple of years. They have been brilliant from fellow vendors, sellers and customers. I love people so it’s been great being able to meet and talk with people that have the same passions as myself along with all the tips and advice we share.
What do you think needs to change now in the fashion industry to make it more sustainable?
Education, for the industry for sure but us as consumers as well. I’m not sure if sustainably in the fashion industry is taught obligatory in fashion institutions but it definitely needs to be taught in all years of the schooling system. That way we are teaching the new leaders of not just this industry but all industries to be plant and people first and profit after.
Also, we as customers need to be the change and let the fashion industry and brands know what we demand from them. At the end of the day the main focus for them is profit and if they see a decline in profits because of unethical practices they will do what they need to do to build those profits back up. There also needs to be people inside these corporations that call out these actions that they try to hide from the consumers. I wish right now they would make the changes based on empathy and compassion to the workers and planet but dont think these actions will well and truly be consistently thought about and put into action until the young generations start to take over.
This takes education both for us as customers and within all areas of the fashion business.
What do you believe is “greenwashing” and what can producers and consumers do to avoid it?
I went to Impact, which is an annual eco-responsible exhibition and conference in Paris a couple of years ago. In one of the conference talks there was a guy who was talking about his new business to work with large stores to have a corner where they could put vintage clothing or preloved items. This in itself is a great way of introducing circular fashion to a new audience that might not otherwise think about it but, the thing that he emphasized was the store then got to wave the flag of having sustainable values without actually doing anything. By making a profit off the sustainable banner and treating it as a trend and that for me is greenwashing, when companies do the easiest and slightest things to gain a profit for appearing « GREEN ». The only way to avoid this is to stay informed and for us as consumers to keep ourselves educated and up to date in this area. It’s not easy as we are all learning when information isn’t always given in whole or at the same time as it’s evolving so quickly.
What would you advise consumers to do who seek to create a sustainable closet and lifestyle?
Start off simple and easy and maybe just commit to one thing to start off with. It could be looking after the clothes you already have by repairing and repurposing what you have instead of throwing out and buying new.
Being more mindful when shopping and buying for quality over quantity, instead of buying three cheap t-shirts but one of better quality and commit to looking after it better.
After that, look on your favorite store's website and if there is something that they like, try and find a vintage or preloved version of it. You can use the app GEM and sites like Percentile and Vinted for high street favorites, Depop if you're more of a PLT or Boohoo style and if you like high end Vestiaire Collective or The Real.
This leads perfectly into also knowing your style…if you know your style you can follow and use Instagram and Etsy stores who speak to your style, this helps to cut out a lot of the other noise so you can just focus on finding pieces that fit your style and you’ll wear, love and treasure for longer.
“If you know your style you can follow and use Instagram and Etsy stores who speak to your style, this helps to cut out a lot of the other noise so you can just focus on finding pieces that fit your style and you’ll wear, love and treasure for longer.”
Tell me, which three pieces in your closet would you say are your favorites?
I really have to think about that one!
Ok, I love me a diva moment…I found this draped back beaded late 70’s number when we were touring in Canada and I love this dress so much….it gives me my Diana Ross moment whenever I wear it … I love it!
2, is a pair of Levi’s 501’s that are now shorts. I’ve had them for more years than I care to remember. I bought them at Camden market in London in the 90’s as oversized baggy jeans when my friends and I wanted to dress like Aaliyah. Throughout the years I have grown into them but they got so worn out in the legs that I was unable to repair them so I cut them into shorts. Now I wear them now with caution as they are one sneeze away from disintegration.
3, is a 1€ white linen mens shirt that I got from a charity sale here in France. This is possibly the most worn item in my closet. I wear it with jeans or a skirt, over a dress or shorts with a bodysuit for summer evenings, as a cover up at the beach or pool during summer. Sometimes I wear it as a dress and during winter I wear it under jumpers or dresses.
So I guess the first is the glamour side of me, the second the sentimental and the third versatility and everyday wearability.
I’m so curious, are there any future plans for your business you’d like to share with us?
I’m working on the studio side of the brand and introducing more handmade items as I mentioned earlier. This has been a journey in itself and I’ve had to change plans time and again but finally reached a place where I feel happy.
What, according to you, is the best way to inspire people to buy sustainable/pre-loved fashion?
I think everyone has to keep talking about their journeys and what they’ve learnt. Letting people that are interested that it’s ok to start off a little at a time and that there is not one blueprint for everyone. We all respond differently to information so, the more voices that there are out there the more likely it is that someone will find a voice that resonates to them helping them start their sustainable fashion journey. At the moment I’m loving @the_redirectory for introducing sustainable and circular brands, Leigh delivers bite size informative information that’s easy and quick to digest. I also think people speaking up about what they are wearing and where they found it helps people to break the taboo they have on vintage and preloved fashion and what they need to do for sustainability to fit into their lives. For instance @useless_dk is a great place to go for sustainable style advice and Emma Hills #secondhandbutgrand hashtag has been a great way for her community to share their preloved items to an audience that isn’t a typical audience for preloved fashion.
“I think everyone has to keep talking about their journeys and what they’ve learnt. Letting people that are interested that it’s ok to start off a little at a time and that there is not one blueprint for everyone. ”
