INTERVIEW #27 AYANDEH
Based in: Gamlestan, Gothenburg, Sweden
Founded in: Gothenburg
Founded by: Pardis Payandehrad
Shop at/ship to: Shop in store or through Instagram. Shipping only within Sweden.
Instagram: @_ayandeh
Hi Pardis! Thank you for doing this interview, and I must say - the name of your store is so beautiful! Does the name ”Ayandeh” mean anything special to you, or why did you choose that name?
Thank you for the opportunity! Ayandeh is part of my last name, but it is also the Persian word for “future”, I believe it represents the concept well.
When did you launch Ateljé Ayandeh, and where did the business idea come from?
The idea came during a conversation with my friend Disa one dark and cold winter night. We discussed what we could contribute to the market and what the ideal workplace would be. And then the idea just stuck and I decided to take a chance and start the company, so I started with a pop up-store in November 2019. For me it's all about how we can change our consumption patterns and move towards a more sustainable future, and how I as a tailor can help do so.
“But I really became enamored with vintage and secondhand when I started studying clothes making in 2016, that’s when I realized how the fashion industry really worked.”
How do you pick the vintage and second hand products you sell?
Just whatever catches my eyes really. Usually I look for quality and timelessness.
Have you always been a fan of pre-loved & vintage pieces, if not, what made you change?
When I was a child, my dad used to take me to different second hand stores where he would look for tools. I would wander to the kids section. But when I got a bit older I found a clutch bag and a pair of big sunglasses, this was in the Olsen-Hilton-Richie-era. And I went crazy about it!
But I really became enamored with vintage and secondhand when I started studying clothes making in 2016, that's when I realized how the fashion industry really worked.
What’s your relationship with clothes?
I'm a tailor, so my relationship with clothes is strong. I make them, I adjust them and mend them. I work with clothes 6 days a week. I constantly look at what people are wearing, I look for different cuts, fabrics and how people interpret trends. I love clothing as a way of visually expressing oneself, for me it's art.
What do you think about the fashion industry?
That it needs to change. It's sad to see that we're aware of the changes needed to be done, but we're unwilling to make those changes. I could only be a preachy friend/family member for so long. Now I let my store do the talking. I think the industry will look the same as long as the regulations and laws attached remain unchanged. Change has to come from the top political level. The consumer can’t and shouldn’t take all the responsibility, but we can try to affect decision makers.
“I’m a tailor, so my relationship with clothes is strong. I make them, I adjust them and mend them. I work with clothes 6 days a week. I constantly look at what people are wearing, I look for different cuts, fabrics and how people interpret trends.”
Did the pandemic change your business strategy in any way, good or bad?
I opened my second pop up in April of 2020. The worst time ever. I had an idea of doing more business online, but it was hard getting motivated to do so. I want the customer to touch and try on the clothes.The only things I initially sold online were jewellery and accessories. Then in March 2021 I opened the current store, and it’s the same. I'm more focused on the store than the social media account. I really want physical stores to still exist, and it’s sad to see all the stores that have closed because of the pandemic, #supportyourlocals.
I guess my business strategy didn't really change because of the pandemic, but I've had to postpone having events in the store, avoiding many people there at the same time. If everything continues to get better with Covid, I'll finally be able to use my store as a place to showcase different local artists, and to make it a place where people can come together and have fun.
What do you think needs to change now in the fashion industry to make it more sustainable?
The laws and regulations. As long as companies can get away with doing things this way they probably will. Sure, we vote with our money, but it shouldn’t be the consumer responsibility to do all the research before buying a product.
What do you believe is “greenwashing” and what can producers and consumers do to avoid it?
When companies are making themselves look a certain way, when they trick the customer into believing they are sustainable. It’s hard sometimes not to fall for greenwashing. Again the word research comes up. We want to believe companies when they’re telling us what we want to hear. But when the consumer has to do a lot of research in finding out if the company is greenwashing or not, they have already passed out on the couch because they have been to work, cooked food, cleaned the home and done laundry. We - the consumers - shouldn't be expected to take that on. I’m a broken record, but I’ll say it again, laws and regulations.
What would you advise consumers to do who seek to create a sustainable closet and lifestyle?
Mend things. Not just clothes but furniture, sunglasses, computers. Try mending more. I have my old computer from 2011, just by changing some components it runs great again. We have to stop expecting that we’re allowed to just go buy new things. Also, focus on buying quality.
Tell me, which three pieces in your closet would you say are your favorites?
A knitted short sleeved cashmere sweater I found in a shop in Paris. My go to pair of black jeans. And a Christian Dior brooch from 1966. All of them were preloved.
I’m so curious, are there any future plans for your business you’d like to share with us?
For now my main focus is for the store to survive, the pandemic is not over yet. However, I am planning workshops and other fun events in the store. The best thing I know is collaborating, I'm looking forward to meeting new people and hatching ideas.
What, according to you, is the best way to inspire people to buy sustainable/pre-loved fashion?
That more people normalize pre-loved/upcycling/remake/mending. For example, I want people to show off and be proud of their mended items. Visible mending is my favorite, and it makes the piece more personal.
“Visible mending is my favorite, and it makes the piece more personal.”
