INTERVIEW #9 MARIA SOXBO
Not many people in Sweden passionated about sustainability has missed the social media account Klimatklubben (The climate club). A digital initiative that has become a movement with ten of thousands of followers in Sweden. Recently the founders of the club launched their book; Gör Skillnad - från klimatångest till handlingskraft (Make a difference - from climate anxiety to climate action). One of the founders, Maria Soxbo, is a well-known sustainability journalist, influencer and consultant. Not many might know that she’s been on the front-line of the fashion industry and it’s inspiring to listen to her story about how she has changed her relationship with clothes for the sake of the climate and her own well-being! Get ready to get inspired.
“I’ve worked at ELLE Sweden and other fashion magazines, I even started one from scratch ten years ago.”
What’s your relationship with clothes?
It’s complicated? I’m a journalist, and I come from the lifestyle and fashion magazine business. I’ve worked at ELLE Sweden and other fashion magazines, I even started one from scratch ten years ago. I’ve attended fashion shows in Milan, New York, London and Paris, and yes – I flew there. I used to love the creativity, the pulse and the constant news feed of amazing clothes. Fashion on a certain level really is art.
But then – I got fed up. I found myself so over certain trends even before they hit the stores, since I had seen every catwalk photo what felt like a million times trying to find just the right one for a magazine page. I got tired of feeling like I had to update my closet every season to fit in, and I spent a ridiculous amount of money on clothes, shoes and bags. Back then I didn’t have a clue about the climate impact of the fashion industry, I just got tired of never having a chance to enjoy my own closet and find my own style.
Today I’m ten years older, and I don’t care about fashion trends at all. I can still really enjoy and admire a beautiful outfit, and I love watching people who really know how to explore fashion in a creative way. But today I’m all too aware about the ecological and social footprint of the textile industry, so apart from underwear and socks I almost never buy anything new for myself. The second hand industry is HUGE, I can’t imagine needing something for my closet that’s not available as pre-loved. Especially since a lot of the second hand clothes in Sweden are hardly used at all.
How would you describe your style?
Comfortable, casual and perhaps a bit androgynous? Lots of jeans, blazers, shirts and sweaters. A lot of black, grey, beige and white as most Swedes I know, but also a surprising amount of greens and blues.
I used to wear quite a lot of heels back in the days, but lost that glam habit when I was on maternity leave and spent my days in a sandbox. Never quite found my way back to the heels, so I guess I’m mostly saving them for my daughter now …
Any favourite items?
“Ideally I’d love to have less clothes in my closet, and only stuff I really love. ”
I love to wear an open shirt dress or caftan – especially a patterned one – over a pair of jeans or slacks and a simple top. That’s my uniform, and it works for almost any occasion. A pair of jeans, a t-shirt and sandals for daytime, and nicer pants, a silk camisole and boots or heels for evening. Always comfy too! Not always compatible with Swedish winter weather though …
How would you describe your close?
It’s a bit unorganized, but I’m slowly trying to shape it up. Shopping second hand is really fun, but it also means coming home with surprisingly odd things sometimes. I do know what I like and what I will end up wearing, but lately I also enjoy trying to find new combinations and expressions using what I already have. And then those odd things in a surprising color actually come in handy! Ideally I’d love to have less clothes in my closet, and only stuff I really love. So I’m getting rid of a lot of the less used ”nice to haves” now.
What is a sustainable closet for you?
“Most clothes are not made to last, and as a customer I’m aware of that.”
A closet with clothes that will be worn on a regular basis since the owner loves them. A closet with clothes that’s mostly bought secondhand. And a closet with clothes that the owner cares for. Mending instead of throwing out and replacing, and so on. I don’t necessarily think that all clothes have to be from ”sustainable brands” (whatever that is), I actually think the owner’s behavior and attitude is more important. Better to buy a few items to last for years no matter what brand, than to buy far more than you need with the right logo. With that said though, of course I think it’s good to do your research if you plan to buy something new.
What do you think about the fashion industry?
I think it’s cornered itself, so to speak. By constantly raising the tempo and adding more trends, more seasons and more limited edition collaborations, the prices can’t match the actual costs. People will not be able to afford updating their closets as often if the prices go up to more appropriate levels, and the whole industry depends on us buying lots of cheap stuff, getting tired of it in a matter of months and buying more cheap stuff.
Most clothes are not made to last, and as a customer I’m aware of that. I can see it in the price tag, in the choice of materials, in the poor quality. I think there are still a lot of brilliant people in the industry, but I think they are trapped in an unsustainable business model.
What do you believe needs to change?
“I do think we need more laws and regulations to change this”
Hmm, most of it? The business models, the qualities, the salaries and working conditions for the people making the clothes, the too fast-spinning trend-cycles, the common notion that mending is a thing of the past. And I do think we need more laws and regulations to change this. Otherwise the brands doing most things right will never have a fighting chance against the cheap high street brands.
I do see a small change of attitude though, with rental and mending services, brands starting their own second hand stores and so on. And of course there’s a lot of innovation going on, with lab-grown cotton and clothes made from carbondioxide and so on. So perhaps we are getting there, although still way too slow.
What can one do that seeks to create a more sustainable closet?
1) Find out what kind of clothes you feel comfortable in, and stick to them. That way you will wear your clothes, not just fill your closet with them.
2) Always go for second hand before buying something new, every time. The climate impact of one new pair of jeans is equal to 197 second hand ones, according to a report by the NGO Björkåfrihet.
3) Create a digital closet with some friends in the same size, so you can wear something ”new” for every party without having to go shopping! Dresses, jewelry, heels and clutches are almost never worn but sometimes hard to give away or sell, since you have a lot of memories wearing them. Borrowing a friend’s sequin skirt for a night while she is borrowing your little black dress is the perfect way for the both of you to expand your closet and get more use out of everything you own. An instagram account or Facebook group is perfect as a showroom for your collaborate closet!
Visit her website and follow Maria on social media!