INTERVIEW #31 JOHANNA THOFELT
What do I do: Busy being my own motivational speaker, working as a Creative Strategist / Radio guest speaker every other week & spends a lot of time on Instagram.
What’s your relationship to clothes?
It’s a constant exploration of self. It's a passion like any other art form.
How would you describe your style?
For as long as I remember I've expressed myself through fashion, well maybe not always fashion sometimes it's just clothes, there's a big difference. I see my style as a book cover. Whatever the genre I’m containing, it's a mirror to what’s inside or what I’m trying to conceal. For me dressing up is a game but it is also power. It’s the power of shapeshifting, experimenting, distancing, or coming closer to me or the people around me. Don’t get me wrong I never dress for other people, I dress to fit the mood. Mostly I get dressed and stand in front of the mirror and find names for my style of the day. Usually, it's a reference from history or someone I made up. I find it so amusing that we all contain so much information that I still sometimes wonder where I fit in. Other people might be able to label my style but I find it hard. I’m not done with figuring it out. I dress from emotion and that’s ever-changing so how could I know what my style truly is? For me labels become pressure. I think we have enough of that. I wanna be able to change without feeling the need to justify it or explain myself to exhaustion. I like to make room for adjustment. But for the sake of this interview lets put down some words I come back to.
Enthusiastic - Unorthodox - Fluid - Free
The people who have influenced me the most are my mom and my grandmother. They both dressed very differently but they both dressed for power. My grandmother came to Sweden during the war and I think she compensated for that by having shiny things, she was glamour to me. People in my town knew who she was “oh the women in leopard fake fur and the green turban with all the jewelry”, yes that was her!
My mother on the other hand enjoys things with patina and she dresses in uniforms, she dresses strong and sometimes a bit like she's waiting for a breeze to catch her linen shirts. From my dad I got the comfort. He gave me my first hoodie. It was purple and awesome.
I'm a mixture between them and my inspiration comes a lot from my mood, Instagram, Pinterest, movies, and my friends. Also, I found this quote:,”if you see me acting or looking different it's probably because I started watching a new tv show and adopted the personality of the character I like the most” - That's me in a nutshell!
I wanna be bold in my expression and that doesn't necessarily mean being outrageous but me stretching my own comfort zone.
“For me dressing up is a game but it is also power. It’s the power of shapeshifting, experimenting, distancing, or coming closer to me or the people around me.”
On your Instagram it says that you’re addicted to thrifting, what does that mean?
I would like to have a romantic approach to this but basically it’s about winning. I like the feeling of a bargain, winning an auction, or just stumbling upon something that I didn’t know existed. As a matter a fact maybe that’s the thing. In a world where we are all just trying to find room for our knees, I'm just trying to build myself some space. And rather than finding it on a rack traveling the norm, it’s the chase for something with a story or something that feels unique or fits the puzzle that is me. I really dug deep to find that answer and haven’t really thought about it like that before. I use the word addiction because it’s also an escape. I think we all need one whether it’s golf or dancing but the chase for me is a moment away from the bigger questions. In a world unknown filled with chaos and uncertainty, I find a little relief in the beautiful things that someone at some point laid a hand on.
I was fortunate to grow up with a mom who loves going to auctions, second-hand stores, and markets. She sews a lot too, so I learned that from her. One of my favorite memories is from my 12th birthday and she told me she got me something weird. I opened the box and there was a vintage cropped biker jacket with shoulder pads and an eagle on the shoulder. It was enormous but I loved it. I still have it and I still wear it. Early on I also realized that the women in my life have this ability to create spaces. They create their own world inside their home and with their wardrobes. I wanted to do that too. Build space with beautiful and sometimes broken things. Honestly, buying second hand is a treasure hunt, and when you find something you get your reward for the time spent scouring the internet and shops.
“I want to buy to keep and have a long-lasting wardrobe with more accessories to change up the outfits rather than changing the garments. And honestly what’s more sustainable than wearing what you already have?”
How would you describe your closet?
I think most people assume that I got a massive closet but I don't. Not gonna lie, it might be bigger if I had more storage. I love to organize and can spend hours playing Tetris in my cupboards, bookshelf, and closet. With that said it's pretty neat and it's arranged to fit the space rather than being organized by the clothes. But I do let the fabric of the garment speak first like I don't hang the knits or anything. I would love to have the space to hang everything else tho but right now I’m just doing the best with the space that I have. And after all, I do have a walk-in even if it's small. If you can squeeze in three people it's a walk-in, right?
What is a sustainable closet to you?
I try to surround myself with things I love. I've had a circular wardrobe for a couple of years now, basically one in one out. I buy 80% secondhand and sell the things I don't use anymore. I've also become more conscious of how I spend my money. For me, it comes down to materials and how things are tailored. Right now I'm moving towards a more curated wardrobe. I want to buy to keep and have a long-lasting wardrobe with more accessories to change up the outfits rather than changing the garments. And honestly what's more sustainable than wearing what you already have?
Although, I'm not perfect and for the sake of being transparent I also go on unhealthy shopping sprees. The reason why they are unhealthy (other than it is the opposite of sustainable) is that I'm trying to fill a void rather than facing what I'm trying to avoid. If you recognize yourself in this behavior, you know what I'm talking about. But feeling guilty is good. It means we are mindful. Also, I'm really digging this trend of having a subscription for renting fashion. I think it's the future.
What do you think about the fashion industry and what do you believe has to change?
It's such a love/hate relationship with this industry, so much needs to change. For starters, I feel like we could do with a lot fewer seasons and collections and please be transparent with how the garment is made and pay your workers! Make things made to order instead of having piles of unsold items. More and more brands let you leave your worn clothes in the stores to be recycled and reused. I think that should be something everyone offers.
Also please stop aiming for expansion and growth. It's a fucked up system that everything is built on producing more, just don't. Everything is moving at such a fast pace and I think everyone needs to slow down. It's so important that we as consumers realize that we have the power to impact the industry. Again look at your own behavior. If we change - the industry has to follow.
What can one do that seeks to create a more sustainable closet?
It doesn't have to be complicated. For me, a sustainable approach doesn’t mean to give up shopping or buying only second hand but it’s about being conscious of your own spending behavior. The truth is that fashion is one of the biggest polluters on the planet and it’s our job as consumers to be aware of how we contribute. Adjust your thinking. Instead of accesses think usage. Also, this is a big one, be mindful of your garments. Yes, they are meant to be worn, but once you lose the respect for it, it's hard to retrieve it as something precious, and if you find yourself not caring let someone else do.
A favorite of mine is to recreate looks from instagram or pinterest (#pinneditworeit) with stuff I have in my closet or look for similar things second hand.
● Know your measurement. When buying second hand online it makes the biggest difference.
● Look for good materials. Natural materials still impact the environment but at least a little less and it lasts longer. ● Learn how to sew or find a good seamstress or tailor. Do you love it but it doesn't fit right - Have it adjusted for you. I promise, there is no better feeling than having something tailored for your body.
● Buy to keep or adjust to a circular wardrobe. If you love something I'm all for it but try to wait a few weeks before purchase if you're still thinking about it, usually, it's a keeper.
● Keep asking yourself why you keep feeling the need to add. Again with the questions. I'm generally big on having conversations with myself, I love getting to know myself better and you should too. It's a great way to become better friends with yourself.