INTERVIEW #4 EMELIE GUSTAFSSON MAISTEDT
It’s not often you meet someone that has studied and worked in the fashion industry her whole life - who acknowledging the social and environmental problems behind it - and then decides to do something about it her self. Emelie is one of the persons behind the start up The Common Closet; a platform where you can share your clothes with others - but what’s her relationship with fashion? Get to know her and her options about what’s need to change for a more sustainable fashion industry.
What’s your relationship with clothes?
I would like to describe it as a relationship – there’s love and there’s hate. I love fashion. I’ve been studying fashion and it’s basically the only industry I’ve been working in.
But the last few years something has changed. Since there are so many things within the fashion industry that are so bad, for the producers but also for the consumers. For the consumers it’s the constant stress about always having to update your closet and buy something new. I believe a lot of people are not comfortable with their style and they feel like they have to buy the latest fashion item to feel trendy.
But I also love fashion since it’s a way to express yourself, I can be girly, rocky, comfortable or hippie deepening on how I feel.
How would you describe your style?
Wow, that’s a hard one. I think I’m quite a paradox. It completely depends on where I am. If I’m traveling I’m wearing a lot of colures. Dresses with flowers and straw hat – I would probably label it as some kind of Ibiza style. But otherwise I’m wearing a lot of black, white and grey. My style is very minimalistic and simple. If you know the fashion brand Toteme you know what I’m talking about.
I used to be more rocky, like Kate Moss. Leather jackets, a lot of dresses, boots and hats. I used to wear hats a lot. During another time period I used to look like someone always wearing their boyfriends clothes. And of course, Olivia Palermo was another time period, I used to dress like her. A lot of blouses and visible jewellery’s.
As you can see it has changed during the years. Now when the autumn is arriving I feel like wearing a lot of hats, boots and scarfs but otherwise my style stays quite minimalistic.
How would you describe your closet?
Overstuffed! There’s a lot of jeans in it. There’s a lot of shirts.. and there’s a lot of T-shirts and weird tops! I normally wear shirts, pants and a jacket but I do own some crazy dresses, party-tops, satin skirts but they are not being used that often. Actually, there’s so many things there I probably only wear 10% of it once a week. I actually cleaned it out recently so things I’m not using that often, I have saved for better times when I feel like using them again.
What is a sustainable closet for you?
A sustainable closet is a closet with clothes you use more than ten times.. or it’s a closet with clothes which you really have considered before you bought them, ask yourself; do I need this? It’s about not to buy what you want but what you actually need. It’s about consuming clothes consciously – see your clothes like an investment you can sell at second hand, rent out to a friend or so.. the clothes should be useable for a very long time. It shouldn’t be a feeling or an impulse that behind your consumption, rather a conscious thought before buying it.
What do you think about the fashion industry? What do you believe needs to change?
The fashion industry is not very modern.. it needs to be reinvented. It’s so bad at so many ways, for the environment and the pressure on consumers. It’s time to start all over again. We need to slow down the production, the big companies should start to collect data on what’s actually needs to be produced. Of everything that’s produced about 30% are stock. Lower production, fewer collections and higher quality so the item doesn’t have to be thrown away after used by the first consumer. Most companies have linear business models and they have to become circular in collaboration with others. Rental needs to become the norm. You should be able to buy second hand clothes directly from each brand and not on an external site. Each brand should have their own service. Everything has to be circular!
What can one do that seeks to create a more sustainable closet?
Before you buy anything – think about it! Read about the company – how is the clothes produced? It’s actually about small conscious actions here and there but we all need to start questioning the fashion brands so they actually realize they have to change! Ask them – in the store, by email on their Facebook chat – is organic cotton better than non-organic? How do their supply chain look like? It’s actually humans behind all clothes so does it make sense that a pair of jeans only costs 99 SEK and actually cover all the costs in the supply chain? Are the environmental costs included? Buy from more conscious brands that takes more of a responsibility! First look at second hand – can you find what you need there? If it’s clothes you only use once, rent them or borrow from someone. Ask the brand if you can borrow it, the more people we are asking, the more brands starts to reconsider their business model. We as consumer needs to change first. Another thing you can do is the sew you own clothes. Ask a tailor to help you, show them a picture of the dress you want and see if they can help. That’s also way more fun to have something unique. Or if you completely tired of the industry, start your own company! You can also make a change as an entrepreneur. Everyone is needed.