INTERVIEW #18 HENNING GILLBERG
Henning is someone who do not profile himself within the term or name of sustainability, he talkes about circularity and looking after what’s already been produced. As the initiator behind the campaign White Monday, as a response to Black Friday, and as the founder of Repamera, a business that help consumers to repair their belongings and extend their lifespan, he really lives as he learn. However, I would still argue he’s probably one of the leading figures within the sustainability movement and a well-known and dedicated change maker. This is his perspective on his own style, relationship with clothes and ideas and suggestions to transform an industry and help consumers.
Occupation:
“A sustainable closet is circular, which means it’s resource efficient.”
CEO and founder of Repamera AB
What’s your relationship with clothes?
My relationship is pretty simple. When I started to structure my life here in Malmö with a new apartment, I also got to structure my style. Maybe choosing my clothing-expression a little bit more in detail.. finding my colours. I’m from the country side in Sweden, Småland, so the style there can be what we in Sweden call “bonnigt” simple and inspired by the lifestyle of a farmer.
During the last two years I feel that have become more connected to my clothes and style.
How would you describe your style?
“If you want something new, simply rent it.”
Loose, business and causal. I use shirts a lot, especially East West from Brothers since they suit me so well! I know their M-size fits me well so that’s what I consume and use. It was actually established the same year I was born!
My style is pretty much a reflection of everything I do. I’m the business owner of a clothing workshop, but I have an office. I live in Malmö, not at the hipster areas neither the fancy ones, I’m from the countryside but I live in the city. It’s like a combination of these!
It basically means wearing a pair of jeans and a shirt, which I do.
How would you describe your closet?
My closet has several shirts, a few sweaters, two hoodies, a few jeans and some linen. It has become more colourful latelty. It’s in order. I owe two pair of exactly the same shoe, which I circulate. If I find something I like, a buy several of the same model and size, since I know I will use it a lot.
What is a sustainable closet for you?
A sustainable closet is circular, which means it’s resource efficient. Production of new clothes can’t be sustainable, so you use what’s already produced. A sustainable closet is a closet where no new clothes are entering. If you want something new, simply rent it. Now that’s resource efficient!
Be aware of what you own. Find the favourites you like and what fits what. When you know your favourites, you can look for them at several second hand online services such as eBay. Recourse efficiency requires order and structure. You have to spend time looking after your clothes and closet. By being more aware of what you own you will make better decisions as well.
What do you think about the fashion industry?
“Fast fashion is the same thing as being lazy.”
The industry exists since the costumers exist, and it’s easy for them to buy something new. The companies are doing a good job to help the costumers to make easy decisions. Fast fashion is the same thing as being lazy. But fast fashion is also a manifestation of the rules and laws we have in Sweden. It’s easier and cheaper to produce clothes in Bangladesh compared to Sweden. It’s easy to blame the companies but they exist as long the costumers want to consume the way they do.
The fashion industry has a superefficient production line and they’re pretty good at selling their message and the lifestyle they promoting.
What do you believe needs to change?
You can argue that we should consume more locally produced items and so on but a lot of things would change if the tax-system changed in Sweden. Many people want to buy items of high quality but they can’t afford it. What we can afford in Sweden are companies having a high-volume production of clothes. If you want to buy clothes produced in Sweden, it’s very expensive, that’s why business models within the fashion industry is instead choosing production of new clothes abroad.
“Everything that is second handed should be tax-free, since it’s already been taxed.”
If we would lower the taxes in Sweden for small-scale entrepreneurs, it would be easier to run a business. Everything that is second handed should be tax-free, since it’s already been taxed. There’s plenty of second hand shops that are very good but the customers still have to pay an additional of 25% tax, which makes the prices quite high. High prices mean fewer customers, which leads to lower revenue. This makes it hard for them to survive on the market. Local small-scale companies should be deregulated and encouraged, since they’re helping the government to decrease waste. But now, it’s cheaper to buy a newly produced bag instead of fixing a broken one.
I would also suggest that if you invest in a circular company, you wouldn’t have to pay tax for capital. Companies with circular business models should also have lower general payroll tax. Then more people on the stock market would be interested and banks would start to create funds which would facilitate more capital to circular companies. Adjust to the rules of the market, god damn it!
What can one do that seeks to create a more sustainable closet?
“Stop drinking coffee and start meditating.”
1. The first principle to know what you need is to know what you have. So keep order in your closet and storage. This will give you an overview of what you own.
2. Stop drinking coffee and start meditating. It will keep you in control of your fight or flight-reactions, decrease the urge for dopamine which leads to a more long-term decision-making.
3. Everything is available second hand. Keep an eye on international sites like eBay, but also national like Blocket in Swedfen, dba.dk in Denmark and FindIt.fi in Finland. The shipping is quite cheap nowadays, for instance Postnord is available in both Denmark and Finland.
4. You’ll have to interact with human beings instead of companies when you buy something pre-owned. I believe this where most of the resistance towards second-hand comes, because generally people are avoiding to interact with people that they don’t know. But I promise you, it will make you grow. Both as a person aswell as a bargainer.