INTERVIEW #162 CHIARA SPRUIT
Name: Chiara Spruit
Occupation: Style coach
Based in: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
Website: www.indiaaninjekast.nl
Instagram: @indiaaninjekast
Hi! Welcome to A Sustainable Closet! Can you please tell us more about yourself and your relationship with clothes?
My name is Chiara and I am 47 years old. I grew up, being a native American, in a small village near Amsterdam as I was adopted by a Dutch family as a kid. No one looked like me, I could not buy my clothes in regular stores like my friends since I did not fit the clothes, and wherever I walked, people stared at me. So my looks and my wardrobe were a daily struggle. I decided at a certain point, people will look at me no matter what I look like, so let’s experiment. Let's dress the way I want, as colourful and bold as I love it. In that way, I will give people something to look at. Since I had that mindset, it was only a matter of finding the right clothes.
Luckily I was raised by a wildly creative open-minded mum, who started taking me to the most magical fabric markets in Amsterdam. She bought me amazing fabrics and said: 'What do you want your wardrobe to look like? Anything is possible.' So off I went, in the most beautiful original tailor-made fitted quality outfits. Next to that, my mum had a wardrobe full of vintage stuff. So to this day, vintage is what I wear. My creativity grew from that moment onwards. I see clothes as a piece of fabric, and you can create EVERYTHING with them.
You call yourself a fashion disruptor, what does that mean? In what ways do you disrupt?
Nowadays I meet so many women who totally forget that they are experts in dressing themselves since they were young. They rely too much on systems and society to build their wardrobes. Like clothing brands with their newest weekly (!) collections and tiresome must-haves and influencers who promote consumerism, media where still not all people of the world are shown and outdated fashion rules with unnatural body figures and wrinkle-free faces. I inspire my woman to forget about ALL that.
I show my women that fashion is all about creativity, feeling what suits you best, wearing what makes you happy, following your personal taste, shopping in your own wardrobe. And next to that, when making choices about what to wear always have nature and fair working conditions as a top priority. I am one of the few fashion Instagram accounts that has no cooperation at all with fashion brands.
Can you tell us more about your work as a stylist, how come you started styling?
I started styling my mum when I was a kid. She had a public life and was fed up with creating outfits at least 3 times a week for her meetings, social events, dinner parties and so on. So she asked me to style her. To find outfit combinations in her wardrobe topped off with accessories, hair and makeup. And soon next to my mum, my friends asked me to shop in their wardrobe and help them find their style.
Nowadays, I shop worldwide with women IN their wardrobe and create for them their own shop at home. I introduce them to how to find their style, to make endless clothing combinations, what clothes to add to their wardrobe (in a sustainable way) and how to maintain their clothes. I inspire my women to use their creativity, to dare, to experiment and to start dressing following their hearts and intuition. For the last 30 years, that is exactly what I loved most doing and what I intend to do for the rest of my life.
Who are your customers and what do people normally need help with?
My women are from all over the world (age 25-80) and they are going through a changing life phase. Their life has changed but their wardrobe has not yet. So either they have too many clothes that do not work for them or too little. What they are looking for is someone to spark their creativity. To build further on the knowledge about themselves and their wardrobe they already obtained during the years. They are looking for a true sparring partner, who shows them possibilities. I show them the direction where to go, but never the destination. I truly believe that in that way, an outfit will be 100% personal instead of co-created. Some women save money for years to work with me, some book me as soon as they hear about me. And more and more women book me every year to level up and to stay inspired.
Your best tips for people who want to buy and style more with second-hand clothing, where should they start and what should they think of?
Start with what is easy to obtain, and within reach. So start shopping in the wardrobe of your friends and family. I found the best items in the wardrobe of my grandma and my mum. These old garments are of the best quality clothes which possess lots of stories as well. Furthermore, visit a clothing swap or organize one. And check the Clothing loop, an international initiative that makes it easy to swap clothes. This initiative was set up by my friend Nichon.
Also, check if you can find a clothing library somewhere in the neighbourhood. In that way, you can check if you like a garment before you buy it. In the Netherlands, the National Opera and Ballet organize a yearly sale of all costumes not used anymore. I save up all year to spot a treasure there. Check if something like that is happening in your area. With all these suggestions, be aware, that you might not fit into the clothes you find, but maybe you can use the fabric. Be not afraid to use your scissors to alter the garment or visit a tailor to do it. Clothing is just a piece of fabric, make it your own.
What do you think of the fashion industry and what is needed to make a difference?
In my opinion, the fashion industry is crushing creativity, quality, craftsmanship, respect for womankind and nature, diversity, equality, heritage and so much more. Basically, the industry is all about making money, no matter what.
So, what is needed? People who do not take this any longer. Who start using their creativity with the clothes they already have in their wardrobe or with clothes that they borrow/swap from someone. People who are outfit repeaters. People who exchange knowledge on mending, altering and washing clothes. Who knows how to embroider, weave, and upcycle the clothes that are already on the planet? Next to that the politics, big companies and the schooling system should support this in every way possible. Wishful thinking? I have hope.
Anything else you want to share?
So how to start yourself? Do some inner work. When talking about clothes, fashion, dressing it seems that what is most important is who is best dressed or what IS beautiful.
Let’s look at it from two sides:
YOU
Always start with YOU.
Find out who you are, what are your life values, and what is it that you stand for. One of my biggest inspirations is ALOK. Alok says: ‘You have to break your own heart. You have to heal. You have to question all that has ever been taught to you. And create your own opinion. Be a rebel. And when dressing following this, your style be so much more natural.’
So if you like going to school in a suit every day. So what? If you like to wear a tutu to the casual Friday drink at work. So what? If you do not know the difference between second-hand and vintage. So what? If you never entered a sustainable clothing shop before. So what?
You are you, you have your own development, your rhythm. Your wardrobe is your lifework and will form itself following how much time, money, energy, and love you put into it.
THE OTHER
Whoever that is for you. Your sister, your colleague, your friend, your kid. If the other always gets compliments on looks. So what? If the other has a better style than you. So what? If the other puts on bizarre clothing combinations you have to walk next to her. So what?
Make no negative remark. Feel no envy. Do not copy. Do not make yourself smaller.
Celebrate you. In order to dress authentically and beautifully.