INTERVIEW #127 CATHRYN WILLS

Name: Cathryn Wills

Occupation: Founder, Sans Beast

Based in: Melbourne, Australia

Website: https://sansbeast.com

Instagram: @sans.beast

 Hi Cathryn, welcome to A Sustainable Closet. Can you please tell us about yourself?

I’m the founder of the vegan brand, Sans Beast, I live in Melbourne, Australia with my partner John and two cats, Luna and Wolf.  I established Sans Beast in May 2017 after about 30 years in the fashion retail space, coming up through both the design and commercial ranks. I left an executive role, leading the Australian accessories brand, MIMCO, in mid-2016, after consulting with a few businesses, and made the decision to branch out on my own. I moved to a vegetarian diet in 2015 and then progressively moved to a completely plant-based diet in the latter half of 2016. I was what you might call a late bloomer, starting a business after decades of being an employee, however, after all those years, I knew that the only way to follow my path with integrity was to build a brand world that is true to my ethos. Sans Beast means ‘without beast’ – or in simple terms, no animal products are used in the making of our pieces. The brand is primarily handbags, with a selection of wallets and bag straps. We will look to move into other categories carefully and with due rigour, as we finance the business ourselves, to make something that has longevity requires patience.

The brand is vegan and PETA-approved, why is this the case and what are your views on vegan vs. sustainable fashion, can they go hand in hand? 

I’m not a fan of the word ‘sustainability’ when applied to the fashion industry as it is so overused, it’s lost much of its meaning.  None of us really know how sustainable the industry is if it continues to grow at the rate we’ve all been accustomed to, plus, too many brands who are exploiting animals, and/or churning out monthly collections, call themselves sustainable because they have a few products using RPET fabric (for example). I prefer to think of our business as being responsible; not using animals as building blocks (industrial agriculture is not environmentally sound and of course, is ethically highly questionable), paying our manufacturers fairly so the relationship is win-win, contributing to charities, paying our employees fairly and offering supreme customer service to our community. ‘Vegan fashion’ is also a broad brushstroke term, and could mean several things. I believe to be truly responsible we need to make well-designed pieces that last, with care advice delivered alongside, it’s imperative that we care for our wardrobes if we want to minimise over consumption. Being PETA approved was important from day one of Sans Beast, as it’s a well-known ‘seal of approval’ by an entity that has always stood by its principles. 

What’s your personal relationship with clothes, when did you get interested in fashion? 

I became interested in fashion when I was 10 but I was creatively inclined from childhood. I played dress-ups with my younger sister, as well as making dolls clothes, but when I was about 10, I recall getting very interested in how I presented myself through clothing and accessories. I have a long history of being a big shopper, particularly when I was travelling a lot and held senior roles where I felt I needed to ‘look the part’. During the last five years of business ownership, along with the COVID chapter of working from home, I’ve come to treasure comfort and a much-reduced consumption approach. I get things repaired and wear the same things regularly, whilst I still shop on occasion, it’s a far rarer outing for me. 

How would you describe your own style?

My style is a mixed bag, despite attempts over the years to stick to ‘a look’, I’m too much of a bowerbird for such discipline.  I like the contrast in an outfit and I don’t like fussy shapes. I occasionally wear a dress, but comfort defines my choice, versus frou frou fitted.  I’ll pair it with a casual bomber or trench to ensure the look is easy and relaxed. I favour comfortable pants, flat shoes, layers of lightweight jackets or kimonos and veer towards androgyny or menswear-inspired styles. Dries Van Noten has been my favourite designer for decades and the mix of hard/soft, pretty/tough that he achieves is ideal for me.

How would you describe your closet and what does your closet consumption look like? 

I have an organised closet, colour and category blocked. I wear approximately 40% of my closet on a weekly basis and am now more brutal than ever about giving away or selling things I no longer wear. I’ve always bought bits and pieces second hand, I was doing this 25 years ago when I went to uni to study fashion, primarily for financial reasons but also for the interesting things I found and I only buy new what I adore and feel I can get multiple ‘looks’ out of.

What do you believe are the major challenges for the fashion industry to become more sustainable?  

The challenge is often the growth metrics, sometimes this is in our own heads, ie. the mindset that we MUST grow to be successful, but it’s also a tangible challenge. Costs go up, manufacturing, materials, wages, and transport – and this means that sales have to go up, in order to keep up with the cost increases. However, there is merit in making less, selling at full price to ensure the brand, the employees, and the manufacturers are all paid appropriately for their efforts, and of course, making with materials that are responsible to the earth, the people and the non-human animals we share the planet with. Many brands produce with a markdown/sale plan in mind, overproduction is a major problem, but it remains as it allows for cash injections at key times. 

 What advice would you give consumers who want to enjoy clothes but also make a positive impact? 

Buying secondhand or renting is an excellent place to start. Up-cycling and getting adept at repair or revisions are both fun as it is practical. Buy what you love, take care of it, repair it and be at ease with the patina of age that will likely occur.

 What advice would you give to anyone who would like to start their own sustainability brand? How to succeed as an entrepreneur?  

The million dollar question. I would say nothing is easy, the less you know, the easier you think it is. It’s more than a good-looking Instagram grid, and it’s more than a set of samples arranged via a factory found via Alibaba. To make something sustainable, time plus effort must be applied. I know it’s not a popular opinion when the barriers to entry in starting a business are as low as they’ve ever been (social media + Shopify have changed the game), but I truly believe that doing your homework and staying the course will always yield good results.