INTERVIEW #24 JON
“90% of my closet is from second hand or from my older siblings or swap-days with friends.”
Jon was recommended to A Sustainable Closet as an inspiring person to talk to. And surely, the conversation was very inspiring and thoughtful. Jon shares perspectives on how relating to your style and clothes can have other dimensions and layers as trans, something seldom discussed in the fashion industry. Jon, as an activist, also talks about how you can be engaged beyond your own closet. And personally I learned a new word; performative activism. A Sustainable Closet finds Jon (who doesn’t want to be figured with last name) story important to be told and hopefully we all dare to be more of an activist and on our journey through learning while allow ourself to make mistakes.
Occupation: Art student and freelance artist
What’s your relationship with clothes?
I remember being 13 or something, during that age when you both try to blend in and also want to have a real more grown up personality. Before this age I think people would call me “nice”, which is basically a description of nothing... At the age 14 I started to explore with clothes and style and the second hand market. I was small so I could buy things at the kids section and also the adult section and wear them oversized. I also made my own jewellery, I guess I wanted to show I was creative. I wore a lot of colours, which was very against the Stockholm norm with everything black and beige… In the high school I went to people wore t-shirts from Acne and so on, more mid-brand than H&M. It was very much about class and references to being upper (middle) class. I was very much against that and thought they were ridiculous.
“When I was 16 I came out as trans. It became more difficult with clothes. Not for my own sake really, because I was sure about myself but I was more concern of what people saw when they looked at me.”
When I was 16 I came out as trans. It became more difficult with clothes. Not for my own sake really, because I was sure about myself but I was more concern of what people saw when they looked at me. I looked very masculine for a while, short hair and button up shirts and less colourful. But I also had a boyfriend at that time and we experienced an homophobic accident at the metro, so I started to think about if I looked more like a girl, that wouldn’t happen again. But it was also scary to dress too feminine, since I’m East Asian, I can easily get oversexualised... but when I dress masculine I don’t know how to be attractive. So very ambivalent feelings around everything about gender expression.
Now I’m 23, it has taken me years to understand these feelings and putting these experiences into words. I feel quite uncomfortable regardless if I’m seen as a guy or a girl. It also sucks to overthink your outfit if you just want to go out and have fun. Like, if I wear this or that will I be read as gay or trans, will that lead to homophobic or transphobic violence? Sometimes it feels like you can never win.
But since being 13-14 I feel much more comfortable in everyday life, around friends and my chosen family. There are of course norms even in the trans community, especially if you are non-binary, then you should look “androgynous” meaning masculine. Like, wearing a dress is not neutral - and that sucks.
How would you describe your style?
Photo from: ’Blod Är Ju Inte Ens Särskilt Tjockt 2.0’ that was exhibited at Botkyrka konsthall (Art center) autumn 2019. The jacket and the pants are remade from an XL trench coat from This is Sweden. It has been re-designed with online-hate, that Jon has received and their own poetry.
90% of my closet is from second hand or from my older siblings or swap-days with friends. There’s a lot of stories related to my clothes. When I found them at a second hand store, it can relate to that day and the friends I hanged out with. Maybe the same relationship I have to my tattoos. At some point in life I might regret it, but they will always have a good story to them. My style is not as colourful as it used to be but I like colour. It’s important that they feel comfortable. When I want to be able to move my body, it should be easy.
I don’t really know how to describe my style… but I remember this one time when a friends found an item of clothing, held it up in front of them and said “this is so you Jon!” and that was sleeveless and something between a shirt and a dress. I think many of my clothes are very flowy. My favourite items fits best during spring or summer.
How would you describe your closet?
I have one very basic closet section where everything can be easily folded. But a lot of my clothes are just a mess right now… But then I have a clothes hanger where these flowy and more long clothes hang. I guess those are also the clothes I want to keep visible.
What is a sustainable closet for you?
“Climate is the first thing I think about regarding clothes.”
I’ve been thinking about the environment for a long time. I’ve been very anxious about climate change, starting at the age 14. I wanted to be a vegetarian at that age because of the climate. People used to make bad jokes about it, patronise about the animals, but I told them about climate change. Climate is the first thing I think about regarding clothes. Like it sounds so easy: don’t throw things away, repair them and/or swap them with friends.
But I also think sustainability needs to be for yourself. Maybe be more friendly to yourself and have a long-term perspective. If there are clothes that doesn’t feel nice, give them away. Also economically for me, buying second hand is also cheaper. But that’s easy for me to say because I’m small and I can find things that fit me or work as oversized, for some it might not be as easy.
What do you think about the fashion industry?
Short answer: I think it’s bad. I’m mean it’s not sustainable for anyone, not the planet, not the workers… I think a lot about the west world exploring women and children. Sometimes I go to a normal store but I try to avoid about it. I try to remember that there are people behind the clothes I’m buying there. But also related to the fashion industry, I think about the fashion weeks, models and so on. Everything feels very toxic. Noone is really happy or feel good about it. I don’t know.. but I think that good creative people might get stuck in that toxic environment…
“Be careful you don’t get stuck in performative activism. That means you can share hashtags and social media campaigns but haven’t taken further actions on what you can learn or other ways to make a change. Do things for the cause, not to get likes.”
What do you believe needs to change?
It has to be a big structural change. It’s great if you try to not buy new things and recycle etc. but is doesn’t solve all the issues. Sometimes it’s like the focus are on the minor things, not the big ones. I don’t think individuals can help the planet if the big companies do nothing. I believe we need to have an anti-capitalistic system. And that’s easier said than done when we live in this capitalist world and everyone wants to earn money. And I’m having a hard time to see that a big change will happen within that system. If you’re within the fashion industry you might identify minor changes, but I’m looking at it from an outside perspective.
What can one do that seeks to create a more sustainable closet?
Do research and keep yourself updated on news. Learn more about how clothes are produced. And learn more about maybe the feminist aspects, so if a t-shirt with feminist statement is produced by a woman who’s not being fairly paid, is that really feminism? Is that sustainable?
Get engaged. If you are upset but not able to only buy second hand or to only be engaged in your own closet, maybe you can learn more and do some formal work that supports and environmental friendly movement?
But also be careful you don’t get stuck in performative activism. That means you can share hashtags and social media campaigns but haven’t taken further actions on what you can learn or other ways to make a change. Do things for the cause, not to get likes. Ask yourself about the results, where can you contribute that leads to results?
It’s also about the activism climate, people are often afraid to do wrong. I think it’s okay to do wrong, just listen if you do and correct yourself. We need to create space for wrong doings. Some people were really upset about the black square on social media, stopping the real information about the Black Lives Matter movement and I get that but everyone who posted the black square should be able to try again and learn from their mistake.
On the other side, we can demand more. From brands and companies and everyone with the actual power. In the case of H&M donating money to the Black Lives Matter movement, we should ask ourselves how they can help brown women in Asia and so on. I think we can demand more than just one time donations. It’s really complex and really cheesy to say but I believe we can learn together.
“I think it’s okay to do wrong, just listen if you do and correct yourself. We need to create space for wrong doings.”
