INTERVIEW #74 SACKO
Based in: Gothenburg, Sweden
Founded in: 2019
Founded by: Nana Sacko
Stores: www.shopsacko.com, shipping worldwide.
Price range: 25- 500 USD
Instagram: @shopsacko @nanasacko
Tell us about SACKO and why you started your brand?
SACKO was born when my older son's wardrobe was passed down to his younger brother and it became very clear to me how short the life length for some garments could be, such as the stained t-shirt. I started to experiment in our kitchen using our food waste such as onion skins, avocado pits, and turmeric to extract color. I re-dyed garments with help of natural color using different resisting techniques such as tie dye to create batik patterns resulting in one-of-a-kind pieces. I documented my process and shared it on Instagram. The interest around other parents and friends were huge and I started to dye clothes for others. I already had a huge passion for second hand (vintage) clothes and the combination with natural dyes was just perfect to me. I ended up with a small scale brand focusing on up-cycling existing vintage garments and textiles.
What makes SACKO sustainable?
I’m careful with the word “sustainable” when talking about a product but the brand SACKO with its foundation and processes used are less harmful to our environment and to ourselves. SACKO is a part of the natural dye movement which enhances non toxic dyeing methods using natural color from earth. I aim to use existing garments and fabric as much as possible and produce on a small scale. I also hope for SACKO to be a source of inspiration within the field of remake and sustainable fashion.
How and where are the products produced and where do you source the material from?
Many of the pieces I sell are up-cycled second hand garments who all carry their own history. These are thrifted all over Sweden's many thrift shops and flea markets. I lived in China for some years and developed a relationship with small scale tailors. I made friends with one tailor who also helped me produce my first in-house collection. A small drop of silk slips made from stock fabric, sewn in Shanghai and naturally dyed in Gothenburg. My vision and goal for the future is to build strong relationships with tailors locally to help rebuild Sweden's textile production.
We're so curious about the dyeing process, how does it work and where do you get the flowers and plants from and are there any specific ones that work better for dyeing?
The natural dye process is slow and beautiful and I often describe it as a balance between science and magic. There are as many ways of dyeing as there are dyers but personally I’m inspired by traditional methods such as hot dyeing baths where you extract color from plants and flowers that are slowly absorbed by the fiber. I also love working with a technique called “bundle dye” where you steam bundles of fabric and dye matters resulting in an almost printed look and each outcome is completely unique. Some dyes are richer in pigment than others and have better color fastness. I use 100% natural sources such as locally grown flowers, plants, food waste and imported plant extracts.
Your best selling product?
The natural dyed silk scrunchies are loved by so many.
Where do you find inspiration?
Nature is obviously a big inspiration to me both when it comes to its colors and textures. I’m drawn to earthy colors and raw textures. I also have been working with textiles my whole career so materials play a huge part in how my creative journey takes off.
What have been and are the major challenges by starting your brand?
Time. Practicing natural dyes is time consuming and something I do next to my full time job and being a mother. Things take time and I’m trying to embrace that as a part of being a slow fashion brand.
What has been and are the largest gain?
The world of natural dyes has brought me to so many incredible inspiring people and artists all over the world. It also made me connect with the West African practices in Mali where I have my roots. In Mali there is a tradition of dyeing fabric with mineral mud which I had the opportunity to try and study. This experience made me connect to my craft and art on a totally different level and made the practice even more meaningful.
What would you advise consumers to do who seek to create a sustainable closet and lifestyle?
To slow down. I think I’m speaking for the many when I say that we in the western world have become so used to buying things fast and cheap that our clothes have lost their value. If we spend time thrifting and looking for that special garment or save up money over time to be able to buy that special quality piece I’m sure we will value that garment much more, take care of it and keep it with us for longer. Learning how garments are made will also help to increase knowledge that behind every single item there is workmanship done by humans and raw materials used.
Best thing about SACKO?
I can proudly say that SACKO is unique and our story is ours.
Question to the founder: What's your best advice for people who want to start their own business or get into the industry?
Don’t let the idea of “perfect'' stop you. Sometimes it’s just better to throw yourself out there even if you have a clear vision in your mind. One part of creating a brand is learning along the way. So start now with what you have and the rest will follow.