INTERVIEW #22 SARA BJÖRNE STUDIO
Based in: Kiruna, Sweden
Founded: 2010
Founder: Sara Björne
Purchase: By order, contact Sara for more info!
Why did you start Sara Björne Studio?
I started it because I have always been interested in crafts. I have learned the sámi handicraft early in life from my mother, and I always enjoyed creating. I started my studio in 2010 to find out, if I would be able to have it as a livelihood. Would it be possible to have it as a minor business? Besides my studio I also work as freelance reporter.
I create jewellery’s and clothes based on requests and orders. Jewelleries has been a part of my handicrafts since the start. Recently I created a dress that is going to be a part of an exhibition, that will be shown in western parts of Sweden, in Halland this summer. The last years I have actually scaled down my business, and today I try to pick the projects I found most joyful. The red thread in everything I do is probably the Sámi design. It is mostly what my costumers asks for. I have done several creations such as the redesigned Nobel Prize banquet gown for former Swedish culture minister Alice Bah Kuhnke, worn in 2014. I have also created the gown for scriptwriter and director Amanda Kernell, worn at the Guldbaggen banquet 2018, when she won the price for best manuscript, for her movie “Sameblod”.
“The red thread in everything I do is probably the Sámi design.”
Where did you learn your handicraft?
I am a educated textile teacher for high school students and I’m specialised in dress making. The Sámi handicraft I have learned from my mother, but I don’t do traditional Sámi handicraft for sale. My creations are rather modern dresses and jewelry, with Sámi influences. I’m based in Kiruna, but have costumers all over Sweden.
What is your sustainability profile?
I don’t like the wear and tear culture therefore I never buy fast fashion. I’m really against it. Here in the northern part of Sweden, I live close to the nature and the effects of climate change is evident here. Everything is going so fast, production and consumption, and I don’t want to be a part of it. I prefer to use good materials with high quality that lasts. I want it to be timeless and I want it to last. Not just for a few years, but if it´s possible, for a lifetime. You should be able to wear my creations your whole life. The quality therefore needs to be good and the design should be timeless. This is always on my mind when I’m working.
“Here in the northern part of Sweden, I live close to the nature and the effects of climate change is evident here.”
“I have learned that if I want to reach my greatest potential, I have to feel free.”
How do you pick what projects and request to say yes to?
In the beginning I accepted all dressmaking orders I got, but after a while I realised I didn’t felt good about it. I wanted to keep my authentic expression and my creative process, so I started to say no to orders, that didn´t gave me creative freedom. To pick a few costumers, that really trust my skills, had increased my freedom not only to produce something, but actually to create something fantastic. I have learned that if I want to reach my greatest potential, I have to feel free. This feels much better and I’m very satisfied about doing my business this way.
What has been and are the major challenges?
The major challenge is the creative part. It is not easy when you have a creative work and expression and suddenly, you are going to make money on it. To have a business will in one way or another impact the creative process. I also do everything by my own hands, so it´s hard to have a financially sustainable businesses then. To make it more financially sustainable you should have to hire people or relocate the production, but then you also will lose some of your own creativity and your own handicraft. This is the largest challenge.
“It’s a privilege to let the Sámi design be present on arenas where it hasn’t been present before, such as the Nobel Banquet.”
What are the largest gains?
The greatest joy is that good feeling, that I can offer to the people who are wearing my creations, and also for the ones who are looking at the dresses! That’s the largest gain. It’s also a privilege to let the Sámi design be present on arenas where it hasn’t been present before, such as the Nobel Banquet.
What do you think needs to change in the fashion industry to make it more sustainable?
We have to stop the wear and tear culture. We need to start buying clothes with the incentive to wear them for a lifetime. Today we consume something we only intend to wear once or twice! The clothes we produce also needs to be of better quality. They need to last. This is the major issue as I see it.
What do you believe is “greenwashing” and what can producers and consumers do to avoid it?
Greenwashing is when you produce only one collection of “sustainable materials” but haven’t changed your whole business model. One organic top is not enough. The other part is the cultural perspective. For example you can’t call something Sámi designed, if it hasn’t been designed by a Sámi. It is not okay to use a culture expression if you don´t have the knowledge about it. For example each patterns from Sámi handicrafts has it´s own meaning, a symbolic value. And if you are not aware of it, you might get it wrong. We need to respect those symbols and their original meaning. To use handicraft from other cultures has become a new way for companies to make profit. This is very unfortunate and something we need to be aware about.
“Greenwashing is when you produce only one collection of “sustainable materials” but haven’t changed your whole business model.”
What would you advice consumers to do who seeks to create a sustainable closet and lifestyle?
Invest in good materials
Look for timeless design!
Have a good basic wardrobe that works over time.
Read more about Sara Björne Studio here and follow on Instagram