INTERVIEW #11 SANDQVIST

What kind of brand is Sandqvist and why did you start? 

Sandqvist is a bag brand for the conscious consumer. Conscious in the way of style as well as making active choices in consumption. We started out in 2004, as a fun project founded by three childhood friends. There was no defined vision in the beginning, it emerged organically along the way. Since around 2007 we became more of a design brand. Today we are mainly about making durable bags with respect for the environment without compromising on the aesthetics.

What is your sustainability profile? 

In the beginning, our philosophy was based on simplicity. The bags should last a long time, rarely break and be easy to repair. Our durability profile grew quite naturally and we initially tried out deadstock material on some parts of the bags, like the very first bag that was made of old tarp fabric. Gradually we started to feel that we do produce quite a lot of bags, have a big impact and need to do it as environmentally friendly as we possibly can. So we hired a sustainability manager who set new goals with us. Around 2017, our main goal was that 80% of our bags sould be made of organic cotton or recycled fabric. Which we achieved, and once we decided to work sustainably, it went pretty smooth. From having a sustainability philosophy that was all about lasting as long as possible - which is the most sustainable choice instead of buying new goods all the time - we added sustainable materials and also reviewed the production. Going forward, we are investing in becoming 100% sustainable when it comes to the material of the bags.

“In the beginning, our philosophy was based on simplicity. The bags should last a long time, rarely break and be easy to repair.”

How are the products produced and how do you pick your collaborations or other products you sell?

We try to work with just a few factories and work closely together with them. They are primarily located in Asia. We have partnered up with Fair Wear Foundation which is an independent organization that goes to the factories and makes audits to ensure everything from proper salary levels, pensions, factory training sessions, agents in the workplace, to emergency exits exists and so on. Since we have continuous contact and work with the same factories long-term we can, together with other brands, influence the factories in a positive direction.

When it comes to collaborations with other brands, we have in our sustainability strategy for 2020-2023 to collaborate with others companies who share similar values, philosophy and strategies as us. But there are gray areas. For example, we recently collaborated with Polaroid Cameras. They don’t have a sustainability policy at our level, but we think that by doing collaboration and products with them in recycled material, we can be involved to create a positive change in them. Sometimes there’s a reason to work with a company that may not be top of the game, because they are bigger than us and in the long run they can affect the industry even more than we can.

“We have partnered up with Fair Wear Foundation which is an independent organization that goes to the factories and makes audits to ensure everything from proper salary levels, pensions, factory training sessions, agents in the workplace, to emergency exits exists and so on.”

What has been/and is the major challenges?

Production and purchasing are major challenges. In the beginning we had a couple of times with monsoon rain when the bags were packed that got a little damp, and when they arrived in Sweden three months later they were defected. The same with durability. We have decided that when we choose a material for a bag or a series, it must be 100% sustainable, whether it’s recycled or some other material. That limits us and the range very much. Which in its own right also is a little nice.

“We don’t experience that it has become expensive for us to invest in our sustainability.”

Today more and more companies are starting to work a lot on sustainability. But it is really important not to stop pushing forward after reaching a certain level. In our strategy, we want every single pin on a bag to be traceable and sustainable, we want to know exactly where it comes from, that it’s made in a good way under good conditions. Then we come to challenges like with buckles that are made of recycled material but don’t really hold up in terms of quality and breaks easier. That creates a dilemma whether it’s better to buy the recycled material, but if the bag breaks, it's not good either. So 100% sustainable is always a bit tricky. In some cases it may be better to invest in the detail that lasts. Hopefully in the long run, there will be ways of producing even better durable materials. That is our goal.

What has been/is the largest gains?

That we can be genuinely proud of our work. It's pretty damn nice. People always ask how we have produced the bags and how we know that it’s done in an ethical and sustainable way, and it feels so nice to be able to give straight answers. And even more that it feels good inside the heart. So that's the biggest personal gain, definitely. 

We don’t experience that it has become expensive for us to invest in our sustainability. Not at all. You have to work a little harder. And it is a bit more difficult. But the big gain is that we can create an advantage to many of our competitors. For example, at department houses that stock our bags next to other competitors. There we can clearly see that our customer is a conscious consumer where we are a better alternative to certain other brands that may be a little cheaper but not as good in terms of quality and environmental impact. That is also a stamp of approval.

What do you think needs to change now in the fashion industry to make it more sustainable? 

It's partly about educating ourselves about consumption. That overconsumption is bad. It’s better to use what we already have. To take care of garments and make them last. Fixing what’s broken. And making conscious choices. We can’t stop buying things completely. It's about talking about overconsumption being a problem. 

And it's the responsibility of the companies that live on consumption to talk about it too. The really big companies must perform so much better in the means of sustainability. It’s not enough to make a collection here and there in a cool and party sustainable material, more needs to happen.

The circularity must get better as well as taking care of the recycled goods. It is far too difficult to get hold of good material that has been recycled. Plastic is one thing, but there are many other materials that you may want to use. 

In the end, it’s a lot about us as consumers. We are in charge of our actions. But if everyone just goes to Amazon to get the cheapest bag that is a copy of something that is produced in a sustainable way, the problem continues. 

“The circularity must get better as well as taking care of the recycled goods. It is far too difficult to get hold of good material that has been recycled.”

What do you believe is “greenwashing” and what can producers and consumers do to avoid it? 

Regarding greenwashing, it’s extremely disturbing when fashion companies say that "we use the best fabric” like better cotton initiative which is not as good as organic cotton, or labels garments with things like “green choice” where the more environmentally friendly material is usually just a fraction of the cloth. Which misleads the consumer. Why do these companies not take it all the way? Simply dropping a jacket in a durable material and pushing it out with lots of money and marketing just gets weak.

At Sandkvist we are a bit modest and don’t brag about our sustainability work. We don’t hit a big drum roll because it can feel a little dishonest if you are not 100% sustainable, which we are working towards. Many consumers think it's fun to pick on companies that try their best. And of course you can do that, but you also have to acknowledge that some companies actually try to make a change. Even big companies. They have to start somewhere. And again, it’s partly us as consumers' responsibility to see through what the companies are doing and educate ourselves.

What would you advice consumers to do who seeks to create a sustainable closet and lifestyle?

Use timeless garments. Trend in all its glory, but to have a garment that you can really nurture and take care of and use for a long time is really the best way forward. Repair if it breaks, and maybe find it nice to put on a repair patch. Educate yourself and create an image of what kind of world you want to live in. And you don't really have to read that much to get a decent idea. There are many great options, whether it's clothes, accessories, bags, shoes, food. You should also not make it too difficult for yourself. It's not the end of the world if you buy something from a company that does not have the world's greatest sustainability policy. Use it for a long time instead. It becomes difficult when it gets too black or white and ends up in some form of shameful swamp. Make as many good choices as you can.

Founders Daniel Sandqvist och Sebastian Westin