The Hidden Problem of the Sustainable Fashion Movement: Growth

Sustainable fashion has gained significant momentum as the industry strives to minimize its environmental footprint. From recycled polyester to fair trade cotton, brands are increasingly promoting efforts to be more responsible. But there’s a hidden problem that few are addressing: growth. The very structure of our economy is based on the idea of perpetual expansion, and the fashion industry is no exception. Even in the push for sustainability, we remain trapped in a system that demands constant growth, both in terms of financial profit and material production. If we don't confront this core issue, sustainability efforts will be limited at best.

At its core, the fashion industry—like much of the global economy—operates within a growth paradigm. This is where money is created with the assumption of future growth, leading to endless production and consumption cycles. This applies not only to clothing but to all textiles, including those used in our homes like sheets, curtains, and upholstery. We are constantly encouraged to consume more, and the environmental and social impacts are enormous.

From craftsmanship to mass production

Once upon a time, fashion was synonymous with craftsmanship, quality, and longevity. Garments were designed to last, and textiles were made with care. But industrialization changed everything. Mass production made clothing cheaper, and the advent of global supply chains, along with cheap labor—often outsourced to the Global South—fueled the rapid growth of the industry. This shift was a modern form of colonialism, where the exploitation of resources and labor continued under the guise of economic progress.

Today, the environmental toll of this system is well-documented. Textile production is resource-intensive, requiring vast amounts of water, energy, and chemicals. Yet despite efforts to mitigate this, fashion’s global footprint continues to grow. A staggering 116 million tonnes of global fiber were produced in 2022, up from 112 million tonnes the year before, with projections suggesting that it could reach 147 million tonnes by 2030 if business continues as usual.

The rebound effect and hidden growth

Even within the sustainable fashion movement, there’s a catch: the rebound effect. This occurs when gains in efficiency, such as lower water usage or reduced carbon footprints, lead to an increase in production, ultimately negating the benefits. For instance, a brand might adopt organic cotton, which uses fewer chemicals and less water. But if that same brand then increases its overall production, the environmental savings from each garment are erased by the sheer volume of clothing produced.

This is where the core problem lies: growth in material production. It doesn’t matter how sustainable a material is if the total volume of production continues to rise. Global fiber production increased by millions of tonnes in just one year, showing that even with more sustainable practices, the industry is still expanding.

The crisis of textile waste

The unsustainable growth in fashion is not just a problem of production—it’s also a waste crisis. On average, every European consumes 26 kg of textiles each year, while producing 11.3 kg of textile waste, amounting to 5.8 million tonnes of waste annually across Europe. This waste includes not just clothing but also home textiles like bedding and curtains. Most of these textiles are not recycled; in fact, globally, only 1% of textiles are recycled back into new garments.

While 38% of textiles are donated for reuse or recycling, the reality is grim: only 10% of donated clothes are sold in the same EU country, with another 10% being sold elsewhere in Europe. The vast majority is exported to countries in Africa and Asia, contributing to 1.7 million tonnes of textile exports per year from the EU, a figure that has tripled in two decades. This process shifts the environmental burden to other regions, often to countries that lack adequate infrastructure to manage the waste, compounding the global textile problem.

The need for a material cap

What this all points to is the urgent need for a material cap on what we can produce and consume. Simply making production more efficient or using better materials won’t be enough if the overall volume continues to rise. This is especially true in high-income countries, where overconsumption is rampant. In Sweden, for example, the net import of new textiles increased by 35% between 2000 and 2008. Without setting hard limits on production and consumption, we are merely shifting the problem rather than solving it.

Degrowth in fashion and the circular economy

To achieve true sustainability, fast fashion brands must embrace degrowth. This means reducing production and consumption, particularly in high-income regions where overconsumption drives much of the environmental harm. Degrowth isn’t about shrinking the economy in a harmful way—it’s about redesigning it to prioritize sustainability and well-being over perpetual growth.

On the other hand, circular business models, which emphasize reuse, repair, and recycling, can continue to expand—but only if they are paired with a reduction in overall material production. At present, most textiles are far from being fully reused or recycled, with only 1% of textiles being recycled globally. If we scale up circular models without reducing the total material flow, we will only be replacing one unsustainable system with another.

Challenging the growth paradigm

The real issue at stake is not just the practices of the fashion industry, but the entire economic system that underpins it. Our current economic model is predicated on endless growth, but this is incompatible with the finite resources of our planet. The Earth has biological and energetic limits, and the fashion industry is rapidly exceeding them.

If fashion brands continue to operate within a framework that demands constant growth, even their most well-intentioned sustainability efforts will fall short. What’s needed is a paradigm shift—away from growth at all costs and toward an economic model that recognizes the planet’s limits. This includes setting a maximum bio-capacity for production, capping the total amount of energy and materials the fashion industry can consume.

A future beyond growth

Fashion has the potential to be a force for good, bringing beauty and creativity into the world. But this must not come at the cost of environmental destruction or overconsumption. The future of fashion lies in degrowth, circularity, and quality over quantity. It requires an economic model that values craftsmanship, durability, and regeneration over endless material growth.

The reality is that sustainability can never be achieved within the current growth paradigm. Until we decouple the fashion industry from the need for constant expansion, we will continue to see only marginal improvements while the overall impact worsens. True change requires setting limits, embracing a circular economy, and addressing the systemic issues that drive overproduction and overconsumption. Only then can fashion be both sustainable and truly responsible.

Sources: Textile Exchange, European Environment Agency & Naturvårdsverket