Copenhagen Fashion Week is it truly sustainable?
Photo: Copenhagen Fashion Week, Stine Goya
In an era where environmental consciousness is increasingly at the forefront, Copenhagen Fashion Week has emerged as a beacon of hope in the fashion industry. Celebrated for its purported commitment to sustainability, the event has garnered international acclaim for its innovative approach to merging style and ecological responsibility. However, beneath the surface of the runway glamour lies a contentious debate that challenges the authenticity of this sustainability claim. While Copenhagen Fashion Week basks in its reputation as one of the most sustainable fashion showcases, a chorus of environmentalists and activists remains skeptical, questioning whether the event lives up to its green image or if it's just another instance of "greenwashing." In this exploration, we delve into the complexities of Copenhagen Fashion Week's sustainable claims and dissect the viewpoints that underscore the tension between its reputation and the lingering doubts of those advocating for genuine change in the fashion industry.
Launched in 2020, Copenhagen Fashion Week's Sustainability Action Plan aimed to revolutionize the fashion industry with its eco-friendly focus. All brands on the show schedule must meet 18 sustainability standards in six key areas: strategic direction, design, materials, working conditions, consumer engagement, and show production. The AW23 season (31 Jan - 3 Feb 2023) marked the first full adoption of these standards after two years of testing.
These are the focused areas:
Strategic Directions: Sustainability integration and diversity commitment.
Design: Prioritizing longevity and repurposing.
Smart Material Choices: Embracing sustainable materials, and restricted substances control.
Working Conditions: Ethical supply chains and inclusive workplaces.
Consumer Engagement: Education, reduced plastic use.
Show Production: Zero waste, carbon footprint mitigation.
Copenhagen Fashion Week's commitment to sustainable practices is commendable. The prohibition on discarding show-pieces, the requirement for a substantial portion of certified and sustainable materials, the fur-free collections, and efforts to offset the show's carbon footprint demonstrate a noteworthy dedication to environmental consciousness.
However, a notable issue arises from the event's sponsorship by Zalando, the Berlin-based online retailer. Despite featuring a filter for more sustainable brands among its 5000+ offerings, these brands remain a small fraction compared to the larger fast fashion presence. Zalando's sustainability pledges appear largely unfulfilled, given the continued prominence of fast fashion on their platform.
The partnership with Zalando raises concerns, as it potentially contributes to the phenomenon of "greenwashing," where superficial sustainability claims mask deeper unsustainable practices. The absence of a comprehensive approach to circularity and ethical fashion further compounds the issue. To truly embody sustainability, the focus must extend beyond mere statements of ethics and encompass transparency across the entire garment supply chain.
Copenhagen Fashion Week undoubtedly serves as a beacon in the industry, yet labeling it entirely sustainable might downplay the holistic meaning of sustainability. A transformative step forward could be taken if Zalando were to embrace an exit from fast fashion and apply the same stringent criteria to its own brands on the platform. This shift would signal a substantial stride toward authentic sustainability and genuine change in the fashion landscape.